The first dish in the world

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From the Qing Dynasty to the Qianlong period, the regime was stable, the society was stable, the economy was prosperous, the country was peaceful and the people were safe, and it was known as the "prosperous era". After a long period of stability, Qianlong began to visit Jiangnan six times. Qianlong was very fond of eating and enjoying food, and especially liked to eat southern dishes. During the southern tour, these high-level local officials such as governors, governors, and zhizao, as well as wealthy businesspeople, grandly received the driver, all of whom refined delicious dishes, invited pets for glory, and won the favor of the emperor. In order to curry favor, officials from various places actually reviewed the culinary industry in Jiangnan, which promoted the development of Jiangsu and Zhejiang cuisines and created many famous dishes. The famous dishes of Su Yang were almost all finalized by this time.

In the archives of the "Imperial Tea Kitchen" of the Qing Dynasty's internal affairs government, which is now in the Palace Museum, there is a copy of "Jiangnan Festival as usual food stall", which records the routes, palaces and food menus passed by during Qianlong's 30-year southern tour. Among the many Dragon and Phoenix dishes, the most striking thing is the local dishes offered by the dignitaries. For example, on February 15 at Chongjiawan Daying Wharf, Governor Yin Jishan served shredded meat stuffing, smoked cabbage with swallow shoots, pickled cauliflower, fried gluten, ham, etc. On the 27th of the first lunar month, he went to the palace of Yanzi Temple, and the head of Ma Guo used fried wild duck balls to stew tofu and so on.

When Qianlong went to Jiangnan for the third time, he ate a thick sauce made of shrimp, cooked shredded chicken, and chicken soup in a pot at a snack bar in Wuxi. He made a squeaking sound and was very interested. He praised it and said, "This dish can be called the first in the world." From then on, this dish was worth a hundred times more and was called "the first dish in the world."

"Qing Barnyard Banknotes" records that Qianlong eating vegetarian meals during his southern tour: Qianlong once went to Tianning Temple in Yangzhou, and the host let him eat vegetarian dishes. Qianlong was very satisfied with the food and said to the main monk: "Vegetables are so delicious, better than those dried deer and bear paws. Ten thousand times!" Another data record that there was a monk named Wensi in an ancient temple in Yangzhou who was good at making all kinds of vegetarian tofu dishes, especially his tofu soup made of tender tofu, golden needles, fungus and other raw materials. It was delicious and appreciated by Qianlong, and once included "Wensi tofu" in the palace menu.

Qianlong came to Yongfeng Town, and someone offered their own dried incense. When Qianlong saw it, a piece of dried incense the size of a palm could be cut into pieces as thin as cicada silk, and it could be rolled into a roll. It could also be folded like paper and put into the mouth. It was salty, spicy, fragrant, sweet and fresh. Qianlong was full of praise and asked to bring more back to the capital. Since then, "Yongfeng five-flavor dried incense" has not only become a delicacy on the table and a gift for ordinary people, but also a tribute.

"Qing Dynasty Wild History Grand View" wrote about a Suzhou native named Zhang Dongguan, who was originally the official chef of Suzhou Zhizao Mansion. Once Qianlong's southern tour ate his fried chicken with winter bamboo shoots, and he was full of praise. He rewarded him with silver on the spot, and later brought him into the palace as a royal chef, Rong and the nine ethnic groups.

The fame of Yangzhou's famous dish, Yangzhou dried silk, is also said to be related to Qianlong's southern tour. At that time, in order to prepare for the "pick-up ceremony", Yangzhou officials and salt merchants hired many famous chefs to compete for the new Dou Li, and all wanted to introduce the delicacy of the crowd. Among them is a "nine silk soup", which is thinly shredded with nine delicacies such as dried tofu, ham, and chicken, and then simmered in chicken soup, so that all kinds of umami can be inhaled into the dried tofu. Qianlong used two plates in a row, complimented each other, and came to Yangzhou to order this dish on several southern tours. Since then, "nine silk soup" has been renamed "Yangzhou dried silk" and is famous all over the country.